Also included the Install/Prep page that video is on:īest of luck in your consideration and if you decide to go that route! This video from Evans Prep Fluid demo on a Ferrari may be helpful. So it requires a sound system with sound sealing methods. Keep in mind that Evans is more viscous (I believe is the term) than typical coolant/water and is able to seep or leak through small holes and imperfect seals that coolant/water won’t get through. The number I’d recorded for him was just there main number 88. My second plan was to then periodically drain and replace a bit more Evans after initial periods of use to ensure any water content was getting circulated and removed.ĭuring this entire process I was running everything I did by a very knowledgeable and helpful Evans tech named Pete. That brought that water content well down in the low acceptable water content range. I then drained about a half gallon at a time from the radiator and added more Evans, running it and testing again, 2-3 times. Upon initial test it was under the limit, but not to my comfort level. I bought a small refractometer to measure that. My plan for that was to first ensure once filled with Evans, the water content was well under the Evans max limit. I realized there was likely a small amount of water still in there. It might have been easier to remove the block drains, but with my old block I didn’t want to risk bigger issues. Then left high volume, low pressure commercial blower air running through the block for a couple days to speed evaporation of the remaining water/prep fluid. Then did a pour through of 2 gallons of Evans Prep fluid through the block to scavenge old coolant/water from the block. High volume, low pressure air was used to purge much of the remaining prior water/coolant from the system, also raising the rear of the car. After draining the radiator and removing all the above-mentioned parts that were being replaced, the top end water was gone. When I did it I was replacing the radiator, water pump, overflow tanks and all hoses at the same time, so it was mainly the 385 series block that needed purging.īefore disassembling the old parts, the coolant was drained and filled/run with distilled water and drained to remove most of the coolant. My 3 1/2¢ worth.īTW, I'd be willing to make someone a smoking deal on my Evans.Īnyone have experience purging the coolant system in preparation for running this stuff? Specifically a spf with a windsor? It’s intriguing as it runs NO pressure! It is an excellent water pump lubricant and totally prevents the ugly corrosion that can come from aluminum interacting with some other metals. I sent in a sample to Evans to analyze and was told that it was just like new so maybe I'll use it if I ever have to rebuild my tiny little engine in the current Cobra. When I totaled the car, for the second time, I drained the Evans through coffee filters and have about 5 gallons sitting in the garage. The engine still ran hotter than my gauge would register but I never had any pressure build up and never any coolant puking. You definitely don't want to have ANY water in the system with the Evans.ĭid the trick. Ran that for an hour at a stretch, to give the vac a break, and did this for two full days. Then I used my big shop vac as a blower to blow air through the whole system by duct taping its hose to the upper radiator hose, with the thermostat removed. Even to the point of taking the water pump apart to see if perhaps the impeller was slipping on the shaft.Īnyway, I thoroughly drained the entire cooling system including all the hoses. Did everything I could think of and everything others suggested. I had furious overheating after boring my RAT out to. Steve, I used Evans and was totally happy with it, except the price.
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